According to reports, Alaskan teacher Candice Berner, 32, of Chignik Lake, Alaska was jogging when she was apparently attacked by 2 or 3 mature wolves. Berner was reported to be in excellent physical health although of diminutive stature at only 4'11" tall. Since she was listening to an mp3 player at the time of attack, it is assumed that she was unaware of the wolves' presence until they actually attacked. Berger had just recently moved to Alaska to teach Special Education from her native Pennsylvania. Her body was found by snowmobilers and showed evidence of a prolonged struggle with severe trauma to the throat and clear evidence that the bites occurred while the victim was still alive.Thursday, March 18, 2010
Watch Out for Wolves (Protect them and yourself)
According to reports, Alaskan teacher Candice Berner, 32, of Chignik Lake, Alaska was jogging when she was apparently attacked by 2 or 3 mature wolves. Berner was reported to be in excellent physical health although of diminutive stature at only 4'11" tall. Since she was listening to an mp3 player at the time of attack, it is assumed that she was unaware of the wolves' presence until they actually attacked. Berger had just recently moved to Alaska to teach Special Education from her native Pennsylvania. Her body was found by snowmobilers and showed evidence of a prolonged struggle with severe trauma to the throat and clear evidence that the bites occurred while the victim was still alive.Tuesday, November 17, 2009
The Best Laid Plans (Blah Blah Blah) Part II
So the October Smokies Loop did NOT go as planned (yes there was more than a little foreshadowing there). Instead of a 30 mile loop in 50 degree weather it was a 20 mile out and back in 30 degree weather with rain, snain, sleet, and snow. Its no big deal really as the goal was just to spend a few days hanging out and backpacking with an old friend and mission accomplished there. But it just goes to show that my last post about the unpredictability factor in backpacking trip planning was right on.
My next trip I'm gonna untether my thru-hiker legs and cover some serious ground. I'm thinking about maybe a 50+ mile loop in a long weekend on the AT/Iron Mtn Trail in the Mount rogers NRA in VA. I'll keep you posted. Speaking of "posted" - I promise to be better with the posting frequency. I've been slack, but I've got another Smokies Loop report in the works that I'll try to get out ASAP.
Monday, October 12, 2009
The Best Laid Plans...Get Eaten by Bears
BUT, Friday afternoon I received a voicemail message from the NPS at the Smokies' Backcountry office indicating that my reservation would have to be cancelled as my destination for Sunday night, Sheep Pen Gap Campsite (#13), had been closed for an undetermined amount of time due to "aggressive bear activity." Two thoughts immediately crossed my mind: 1) Great, now I've got less than one week to re-plan, and re-reserve this trip, and 2) BEARS? COOL!
I worked quickly to identify no fewer than four additional 30-mile loop trips that did the Smokies justice: Cosby to Tri-Corner to Walnut Bottom, Elkmont to Double Spring to Miry Ridge, Chasteen Creek to Pecks to Cabin Flats, and Pin Oak Gap to Mt. Sterling to Petty Hollow. Each of these trips worked on 10 or fewer miles per day and offered great variability in terrain touching both lush, bio-diverse stream valleys as well as lofty mountain ridges. Monday morning at 8am I was on the phone with Buck at the Backcountry office rattling off campsite numbers and dates like I was relaying coordinates for a bombing run - ALL FULL, back to the drawing board.I analyzed the five trips that had been shot down for any potential reversibility, knowing that Sundays are easier to score campsites than Saturdays - was it possible that I had a more popular site as my Saturday destination that could be swapped with my Sunday pick? Not really, mileage became the issue here and I didn't want to have a super-short first day and then have to rush to get out on Monday. But then I saw it: Cosby to Walnut Bottom to Tri-Corner and out via Snake Den Ridge. Mileage total is 29 with 10 and 10 Saturday and Sunday and 9 out on Monday. Stream bottoms and ridgelines galore! With my heart in my throat I called Buck back for the 3rd time of the morning and asked tentatively, "Hey, Buck it's Peter again - Is Tri-Corner open on Sunday?" He responded with a bit of a snort and, "I doubt it!" but then quickly rescinded his skepticism and rejoiced along with me as the reservation was locked and loaded.
So now all I had to do was satisfy my own curiosity: What happened at Sheep Pen Gap Campsite that required it being closed to Camping? I asked Volunteer Buck, but he didn't know. I checked on the GSMNP website under News, but found nothing. The campsite is listed as closed under the backcountry closures sections, but again no details. Finally I got ahold of Ranger Randy who was able to shed some light. Apparently the bears in the area had been conditioned enough by accessible human food that they were now taking things to a new level. Bears in the area were robbing tents in broad daylight and refusing to leave the site even with humans present and making a bunch of noise. A grizzly not being intimidated by humans is completely natural, but a Black Bear turning up its nose when confronted means one thing: habituation.
1) Hang or store your food appropriately when in bear country. Bears have noses that are 2100 times more powerful than a humans and they are VERY motivated by their appetites. Don't leave anything that smells good laying around and certainly don't sleep with it.
2) Keep a clean camp. Learn and practice Leave No Trace Principles.
3) If you see a bear in the distance do not approach it. Keep wild things wild.
4) If you have a face-to-face encounter with a Black Bear do not run. Back away slowly, make yourself seem big and make lots of noise. The goal is to scare the bear away and that should not be difficult.
5) In the VERY rare event that you are attacked by a Black Bear, FIGHT BACK! Hit it with everything you can grab. Remember, you are 160,000 times more likely to die in a car accident that at the hands (er, paws) of a bear.
So now the plan is to explore the far Northeast section of the park instead of the far Southwest corner. I am reminded frequently by this pastime that flexibility is very important in life. Even now that out itinerary is set (let's hope) there are a lot of outside factors in backpacking that can have a big impact on a trip's outcome (see my article: Anatomy of a Beatdown to see what weather did to our recent Wind Rivers, WY trip). Hopefully we won't be eaten by bears as I'd look pretty stupid after offering all of this unsolicited advice.
While I'm at it, here's some trip planning advice: When planning a trip with others form a distance one really great way to share information with friends, family and trip partners is by making a map and itinerary in the form of a .jpg file which you can e-mail to people. If you don't have any fancy mapping software, simply search around the web until you find a map of where you want to go. Then you can use that button on your keyboard "Print Screen", that you, if you're like most people have likely always wondered, "What does this do?" When you push the "Print Screen" button it copies a photo of whatever's on your computer screen onto the clipboard (screenshot). Then open up whatever generic drawing program comes with your computer - for PC users it "Paint" stored on your Start Menu under Accessories. Now click paste and voila - your screenshot appears, map and all. Now move your screenshot around until only what you need is on the screen and reduce the width and height (image attributes) to fit your map. Use the drawing and text tools to edit your proposed routes and make notes and then save as a .jpg file. You can now e-mail this .jpg to friends as a small e-mail attachment.
Have I mentioned I'm available for trip planning for a small fee...?
Happy Hiking!
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Good Ol' RockyTop (Hoar Frost Optional)
This 30-mile rugged loop begins from the Great Smoky Mountains Institute at Tremont on Middle Prong Road near Townsend, TN. Plan your arrival carefully as you'll have to come through some pretty tourist-choked areas surrounding Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge and traffic can be nuts.
On this Saturday in January it had been 10 degrees
At the top of the climb we turned right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail (AT) and then an immediate left to arrive at Spence Field Shelter (keep a clean camp and be sure to hang your food on the provided cables - this shelter is frequented by some of the Park's 1500+ Black Bears).
Backtrack to the AT and follow the ridgeline up and over some of the better known (and better named) peaks in the park: RockyTop and ThunderHead.
The ridge through this section of the AT is spectacular. Even socked in by clouds the views were breathtaking as breaks in the clouds revealed dark and frosted ridgelines.
For this trip's complete photo album click here.
Check Back! GPS Beta coming soon at:
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Happy Birthday, Smokies: 75 and Balding

The Smokies turn 75 years old this year (the park, not the billion-plus-year old mountains) and it remains the most visited national park in the nation. However, as we stopped at the crest of the range at Newfound Gap (both to assuage the cries of, “I’ve gotta PEE!” and to indulge my desire to reminisce on the AT) I noticed something troubling that has been more apparent each time I return to the Smokies: dead trees. Turns out there are 3 causes for the die-offs that are all interrelated: BWA, HWA, and Acid Rain.
HWA stands for Hemlock Woolly Adelgid which is another bug and a newer threat. This bug is of Asian descent and wasn’t discovered in the park until 7 years ago. As the name suggests, this pest targets Hemlock trees which grow at elevations below the Spruce-Fir forests at the crest of the range. Hemlocks account for some of the largest living trees in the park, with some in old-growth groves that are over 400 years old. Unfortunately every hemlock in the Smokies has already been affected by HWA. A difference between BWA and HWA is that HWA affects trees of all ages whereas BWA only affects mature trees. While this is good news for Frasers (the 5% that are left anyway) it is really bad news for Hemlocks and the ecosystems that depend on them (pretty much everything below 4500’).So what are the solutions?
For BWA several ineffective treatments were attempted prior to discovering an effective one in the 1980s. A fatty spray applied to the trunks of trees has proven effective in prevention, but by the time it was discovered, the vast majority of the park’s firs had been infected. The other limitation to this treatment’s effectiveness is that trees must be treated individually and the altitude at which these trees grow often present access issues.
For HWA, the initial approach was a treatment with chlorinated nicotine, but like the BWA treatment had limitations in terms of practical implications of treating trees individually. As a result, the park service began to explore alternative means of treatment and have recently begun using a small beetle which is a natural predator of HWA. While it will never be a complete treatment, it is hoped that this sustainable, biological treatment will be effective in controlling the spread of HWA.
The solution for reduction of acid rain is obvious: fight coal power, reduce reliance on fossil fuels, support green power initiatives. And here is where the interrelatedness comes in: fighting the source of the acid rain will also help to stop the spread of these Woolly Adelgids. How?
Natural Resources Defense Council: http://www.nrdc.org/air/default.asp
Sierra Club: http://www.sierraclub.org/
National Parks Conservation Association: http://www.npca.org/
We Can Solve It: http://www.wecansolveit.org/
